Saturday, June 27, 2009
Tim Hamilton
Kris Van Assche
Walter Van Beirendonck
All the models were bonified bears! Big hairy men similar to Walter himself which I thought was a good perspective for him, why not right? These guys were loving there time in the spotlight! It was quite the eye opener at first and then near the end of the show, half of them came out in their underwear. I must say though the show was interesting through the wow factor, clothes wise I couldn’t help but feel there were a lot of ironic tees and I found myself searching for more. There were textured jackets and faux alligator print blazers in neon colors that could definitely work as separates. The pants were interesting with the pocket placement choice, some circle zip pockets on the derriere which were funny and maybe useful in the real world. It’s hard to analyze one of Walters show in a purely sensical way, his clothes and his show were meant to have a sense of humor so in this way he did nothing wrong! It was interesting to see Suzy Menkes at the show, as I didn’t think she covered Walter last year, but was glad to see her nonetheless. I loved the sunglasses they were the best part for me.
Thierry Mugler
Blaak Homme
Friday, June 26, 2009
Dries Van Noten
“Tokyo meets Calcutta” was the theme of the show. It was outside in front of the old stock exchange under the overhang (originally scheduled to be out in the open) making for a tight show and seating close to impossible. It was a bit amusing to see everyone trip on this small detail. Nonetheless the show went on. A van drove up from the street blaring the Black Eyed Peas “Boom Boom Pow” and provided the music and a really amazing energy for the start of the show. I thought the presentation was genius in this sense. As far as the close were concerned it was very Dries and delicate which I liked but with a slight twist exotic twist giving nod to classic Dries in respect to the prints and colors. A slight departure but nothing too groundbreaking. It must be pointed out that the second the show ended thunder roared in the skies providing for an excellent ending and precursor to a roar of applause. It was a moment for sure.
Henrik Vibskov
Great presentation! As always he knows how to put on a show mixing fashion and art into one. The show started with two men walking out in tassled/fringed bodysuits who opened and closed these huge black and red umbrella-like structures which were very interesting and most likely a nod to the future or some sort of ecological reference maybe? The models all wore blond wigs and black spinner tops, which I thought was great! As usual he included his great signature shorts and sweaters- great colors mixed with polka dots. I thought it was inspired but maybe a bit expected. I hesitate to say so though as he always pushes for innovation and experimentation in his line. I really have nothing bad to say. The expected corkiness and convergence between art and fashion was obvious and well appreciated.
Julius
Though the space was tight for the show I found myself seeing a lot of pieces I would love to add to my closet. First I have to address the shoes-they were ridiculous, exactly what I need. I loved all of them, they were made of a thick leather and just absolutely beautiful this is what boys and men should be wearing right now! They were very reminiscent of the Roman and Greek shoes you see in all the classical paintings and sculptures. The clothes were beautiful and delicate and served as a great contrast to the shoes. I felt like some of the tops were like so delicate almost Raquel Allegra for men!? I must mention the beautiful leather coats too… reminded me a bit of Rick Owens goes to the Sahara, but not pulling too much if that makes sense. He played a lot with draping and shapes in a wonderful way it seemed inspired which I appreciate. The color palette made up of mostly neutrals was very befitting and helped maintain the sophistication of the line. In a way sustaining and grounding the experimentation of different draping techniques. Compared to some of the other shows it was really something to take note of as it wasn’t convoluted in anyway. Most people would argue its very editorial but I would say its perfect for both day and night wear depending on the color for me!
Michael Jackson R.I.P
Jean Paul Gaultier- Gaultier2
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Biggest show of the day, as far as the set and scene was concerned. The buyers and editors were out!I found myself on the front row interestingly enough right next to Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas. She was giving face the whole time! She walked up after the start of the show to sit next to me and I was like who is this girl who is bumping up next to me? During the show there were photographers shooting us I just figured it was some rich japanese it-girl. Nonetheless she was incredibly nice and supportive! Anyway, The show was well done and the presentation was perfect. The show was very Gaultier though at times playing with gender- with the corset like tees or better yet bustiers, strap back detail, a severe shoulder or two, and cutouts on jackets. I did find some great interesting newer pieces mixed in there as well. He showcased interestingly cut and porportioned shorts, kilts/manskirts, while playing with black, blue, red and white a few times with some of his shirts using lines and patterns that were younger than I expected. The shoes were all converse and the collection itself was clean and younger than I had expected! Had the chance to say hi to Jean Paul after the show for a quick second and he was ridiculously genuine and nice! Pure French! All in all it was a great production and scene.
Gaspard Yurkievich
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