Jean Paul Gaultier

Adventures in Gaultier Land

Gaultier provided a collection fit for the traveler- at any age as he sent older bearded men and clean cut young models down the runway . Gaultier continued religious and nautical references but brought in a bit of goth, outerspace, and some street with his inclusion of what seemed to be doo- rags on many of the men. I like Gaultier, although some of his stuff isn’t particular appealing for me, I appreciate his consistency. I have come to find that he always presents pieces that push the boundary, and might even seem borderline perverse to some. I think you have to understand his silly personality and perspective. I recommend reviewing early episodes of Eurotrash for this. Must we not forget he is a somewhat of a Parisian staple, after all even Carine goes to his men’s shows.

P.s. Ysl and Betty Catroux is that you at the end?

Marni

School Grool

The eccentrics of Marni and the influence of academia seemed to allow for the label to push out a collection of rich earth tones. It was very wearable, clean, and smart even with the risks they usually take with cuts and layering. I would wear all the looks around campus and wouldn’t put it past one or two professors to do so either. I can’t help but always see Marni as a toned down, west coast influenced, version of Prada with less ambition. I really respect Marni as they are horizontally on point in their vision- in that their women’s aesthetic matches the men’s most of the time.

Albino Deuxieme

Premier, Deuxième

This is the first men’s collection from Albino Deuxieme who is extending their brand. I noticed them initially on www.thefashionisto.com and through a press release. I find that their show was styled well and can see them searching for their niche in many of their looks. I really liked the sandals they showed, but couldn’t help feel that they looked very Raf Simons to me. I did enjoy some of their prints they used and think they should explore that more in their next collection. While most of the pieces I liked- I think I found myself searching for new shapes or something to define them that would make me go out and buy…other than the balloon raincoat or interesting prints.

Z for Zegna

Black, White, Slate and Red All Over…

I give it to Z for Zegna this season. They offered a bit of everything ensuring that there collection will be on point for the trend of the season- there were some play with graphics, translucence, slight geometric/color blocking and an well chosen hue of red that won’t soon be forgotten. These aspects as subtle as they are- made the collection feel a bit younger and playful for the more conservative mans closet. I found the color palette of red, black, white and the different variations of slate to be refreshing for the line that seems to at times be colorblind in the past. On that note while the color choice made sense I can’t help, but see a heavy influence of past collections by Bottega Vennetta (i.e. relaxed fabrics and cut of jackets and pants) and neil barrett (i.e. differing sleeve tones). Good, wearable show with just the right amount of personality for the more trendy everyman.

Vivienne Westwood

Cosmic Pirate Street Prince

Vivienne Westwood did her usual intellectual street flamboyance- mixing cuts, layers, prints, and not to mention haircuts which I can’t help but appreciate. I see her royal intergalactic influence spilling over to other lines in the future. What else can I say she makes clothes for the artists and doesn’t ever seem to follow rules. Viva Vivienne.

Emporio Armani

Military Black Leather, Inspired Military Black Leather

I found myself conflicted while reviewing the show. I immediately recognized the styling and referenced Givenchy from a few seasons back? Anyone else? I liked most of it don’t get me wrong, especially because it did seem relevant to what’s going on right now (after all most of the outfits in Lady Gaga’s “Alejandro” are from the line). I just wanted something else it was almost too trendy, but it did have a message that was strong and befitting for the label. It was a very German mix consisting of styling from Givenchy, slightly altered goth versions of Prada prints, and the rockstar appeal of Gucci. I liked it better than their usual show, this might be a result of their marketing onslaught though.

Prada

Sterile Success

Prada played with proportion again and even used denim and a lot of color for spring. I thought the shirts were great layered under the at times pastel scrubs. Prada always seems to have a personality and perspective. They really seem to always be directional, define “it” pieces and make their clothes standout for the last few years. Other designers will knock off and take from Prada, it’s almost guaranteed. This hierarchy makes Prada so valuable as a buyer, stylist, editor, and customer. For me it was about the bright colors used, chunky colorful shoes, and bracelets. With all the references to the medical field, mixed with the casting at times I felt like the Prada man this season could’ve been a young innocent Dr. Kevorkian.

Bottega Veneta

Deep Steps

I think the label took their look a step ahead appropriately enough this season. They offered more than just heavy layering and double breasted suiting. They mixed pattern and sillouhettes in way that only seemed natural for them. I couldn’t help with some of the looks in green and brown that they were the masculine answer to Balmain Women RTW 2010 with the subtle jungle military influence. That might be a stretch though. The colors and fabrics chosen made the clothes seem extremely wearable and comfortable without sacrificing taste.

Neil Barrett

Relaxed Soldier

This season Neil Barrett seemed to offer a softer, more comfortable show than usual. The fabrics chosen seemed to be purposefully wrinkled and worn in while the fit was very full. For this reason, I didn’t enjoy his most of the pants that he showed. However I did enjoy the strapped criss cross pants and shirts. Those pants reminded me of an editorial in Arena Homme + from last fall in which the stylists taped the pants. (Remember Ja’mie!) Additionally I think it was interesting to see the label mix in the worn in khaki and cream color…not particularly my cup of tea. I guess I just wanted it to be cleaner as past seasons have been.

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Punk

Burberry seems very cognizant of themselves and their identity, which I think has led them to be able to flirt with different influences without compromising who they are. Of course they had an abundance of epaulets, trenches, pea coats and an overall brit attitude- but they decided to include a little more leather and studding this season then one would expect. It looked like they took a class from Nicola Formichetti in leather studding-which mind you I love. The vests they included were a refreshing addition and actually seemed wearable. I think they are doing a great job with the label and seem very culturally aware and tapped into their customer.

Calvin Klein

Classic Future

Calvin Klein integrated the minimalism of their brand with their ongoing play with cut and proportion this season. Showing an easier fit as compared to last season the label sent crop top jackets and ballooned out sleeves a many down the runway. I really enjoyed the color selection from the steel blues to the mint green (a color popping up a lot-possible trend). I can’t help but feel some sort of tiny aquatic influence on the collection.

Jil Sander

Neon Flower Mazes

Raf really embraced color with the Jil Sander collection this season. It was definitely springtime at jil sander as the floral influence was apparent and colors were put on steriods. I think it was great, the clothes were simple so why not turn up something? The belted jacket was carried over which was nice to see translated for the new collection and the geometric prints were mind boggling as I felt myself lost in them at times. Overall the collection seemed very pop artsy, especially with the contrast flower stamped shirts.

Men Show Coverage- Coming Soon

For now... Prada SS 11 FOOTWEAR

In the meantime get your fix at http://www.sonnyphotos.typepad.com/

Raf Simons

I'm having a Raf moment right now . . .

R.I.P. Tom Nicon

CALENDAR

Raf Simons

Supermodels

Beating the streets with Realness!!!
Giving you the collections out on the urban playground!!!!!
WEEEEERRRRRKKKKK!

Helvetica.

I know I might be a little behind with this, but just watched the documentary Helvetica. It's a must see for all the graphics people out there. Netflix!

Sally O'Malley

I can stretch . . . I can kick . . . and I love doing plies!

CHARLIESOCOOLLIKE

I LIVE FOR CHARLIE!!!