Wooyoungmi- Fall 10

Fuzz. Bow Tie Pinch. Robe Side Tie. Braniacs. Wooyoungmi served it up this season. I can easily see the brand developing more and more. I see them experimenting with different things and subtlety referencing other designers through the process which I think is perfectly natural for them. The minimal take on bow ties were a favorite of mine and the fit of the jackets with the side tie looked like it made sense without being too casual. I liked the braniac hats too. It was a nice touch to add the fuzz fur effect on some pieces. It reminded me a bit of Jamie’s Prada pants…exploding in gray. The only issue I noticed was the fit of some of the pants.

Tim Hamilton- Fall 10

Blue, Black, Gray Done Right. Shiny Pants. It was yet another show in which black and grey really dominated the show. Per usual there were a lot of pieces I could see myself in as it was nicely styled. In two jackets he successfully blended black and grey in a side color block- which I think can be trivial for many designers. I appreciated the blue near the end of the show along with the scoop neck sweater. I do think some of it has been done beforem but his pieces look much more refined. All in all good show, with a few stand out pieces. I would swear that's Malfoy in the last picture!

Gaspard Yurkievich- Fall 10

Shades of Grey. Off Kilter Stripes. New Suit.The collection shown in Paris this season seemed to be part continuation, part exploration of the increased amount of suiting Gaspard has expanded to include. He took the lines of a few of his suits he had shown before and did them again in more shades of grey. Additionally he showed a lot of disconnected stripes and belted blazers (almost a signature in the styling of his shows). I missed some of the accents and graphic touches that I have come to love from the past collections. It seems as if the styling was just a bit melancholy too. Where was the richness? I am a big fan of Gaspard’s aesthetic, but found myself slightly disappointed with some of the recycled looks. Maybe he is just sticking by his design with his suiting. Which I do appreciate he is giving new options. As a whole I did think that it was good- especially the little bits of color I saw and the suiting for reasons already stated!

Damir Doma- Fall 10

Black. Layered. Safe. Texture. Damir Doma stayed true to its tradition this season again. The line continued layering in a way that lends itself to possible new shapes while sticking between a gray and black color selection. I can’t help but notice the serious martial art-like influence Damir Doma shows every season. Contrary to last season, as noted I felt like it was missing a flow or sort of ethereal mystery that really attracted me to the line. Then again maybe I am just a bit nostalgic from the beautiful red they employed in their spring summer line shown back in June in Paris. I was missing the risk I guess in a sense. It was layered nicely and did have a concrete perspective. I did enjoy the beautiful leather/shearling jacket and the different incarnations of the pattern used at the end.

Dries Van Noten- Fall 10

Navy-White-Khaki. Well Patterned. Well Done Nostalgia. Dries did a great job for the show mixing patterns and fabrics that seemed like the epitome of modern classic. Alot of wearable timeless looks on the more conservative corky side- which is exactly how I see Dries.

Neil Barrett- Fall 10

Leather. Black. Dots. Neil Barrett continued on his path exploring leather, black, color blocking and this idea of clean punk. The shearling and leather jacket shown was great. The dots feauted on some of the outfits seemed a bit too crafty at times, but all in all I really enjoyed his collection. He showed some womenswear as Prada did which seemed a bit Alexander Wang to me. I generally liked his collection as usual though.

Jil Sander-Fall 10

Shapes. Panels. Spaceships. Future done right. Raf Simons did a great job with Jil Sander this Season creating a few must have jackets. While utilizing his design work he chose a basic color system made up of black, grey, and white to ensure an effective translation of his polygonic perspective. Raf always seems to bring severe cuts with an almost futuristic edge to the table creating clean looks perfect for that customer wanting the next best thing that will actually last. It's easy to imagine one of high design power wearing his clothes with his clean design, but understated execution.