Monday, September 14, 2009

+ Notes

Quick wrap-up on some of my positive notes from the Men's Shows in NYC for SS10!

3.1 Phillip Lim

This collection was very well done. It was excellently styled and had a great sense of direction for the 3.1 Phillip Lim customer. It seems tailored perfect for the emerging American male. It took iconic American pieces and updated them i.e. scoop neck grey sweater seen. I did think there was a look or two that had somewhat of a Prada influence (concerning necklines and look of fabrics used), but all in all I think it was wearable and forward without seeming like it was trying to hard. On a sidenote: I thought the key bumble necklaces were perfect, kudos on the styling again.

Duckie Brown

The bright shade of blue on the shoes and a few of the other garments used through the beginning of the collection were perfect and provided for a required burst of energy to start the show. The big bow shorts were definitely a risk which I applaud him for taking. I give Duckie Brown high marks this season for sure.

Richard Chai

I generally enjoy Richard Chai's mens shows, he is able to create understated forward wearable pieces and the same applies to this season. That being said I don't think this was his strongest mens show to date it was missing a clear definition and perspective almost a hodge podge. This was his first show to my knowledge that he showed suiting, he is definitely evolving and experimenting which might account for my earlier account. I like the muted color he uses and loved the boy flip hats. It was young and smart- which I appreciate. Keep your eye on Richard Chai.

Robert Geller

Stellar color, delicate fabrics, layered fantastically with a gothic touch is how I would describe Robert Geller’s collection this season. I really thought the looks were well thought out and definitely contributed to this new Amercan male look that I hinted at and saw in Phillip Lim’s show. There were many pieces and actually whole looks I could absolutely see myself in. I must say it was giving me Gaspard Yurkeiviech-Lanvin-Rick Owens love child, translated in a good way- which I must say is a beautiful thought. Definitely one of my favorites of the season.

Thom Browne

The Thom Browne show definitely echoed everything that is Thom Browne- there was an interesting mix of layers, cuts, and prints complete with man minis and signature short short pants. I wasn’t crazy about a few of the jackets as they didn’t seem particularly aesthetically pleasing as far as fit is concerned or functionalality, but I have to come to expect this from his shows past. It's part of his show and his humor, I say good for him I love when men's designers have a little fun in their presentations. His use of bright primary yellow was great and I was living for the bucket-pac-man-darth vader- 60’s inspired helmet.
Victor Glemaud
I was pleasantly surprised by this collection. While only a few looks were shown, I loved the lines he created on a few tops and thought the high white socks he paired with most of his looks were the perfect accessories. At times I thought certain color choices were off, but for all he has his hands in I think he did a good job!

All photos courtesy of