Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Plaid, Pleated, Pocketed, Perforated Hope
Mr. Van Beirendonck had something to say per usual and continued what could be described as a playfully subversive approach to menswear. He always seems to present his vision which at times undermines certain norms. Take example his casting, almost always he includes men of differing size and color. This season he continued to show pockets on pockets- some of which spelled out hope, some that seemed to serve no functional purpose, and some purposefully placed to hint some sort of utility or military influence. On that note, I thought the play with pleating and pockets reminded me at times of cartridge belts. All things considered, while the show can seem silly I think that there is an underlying message pertaining to global awareness. If so, this is just another example of Walter’s genius.
Go Gaspard Go. This season’s show was a win for me. I thought the collection was styled very well. Most of the pieces I found wearable, appropriate, and understated for the Yurkievich customer. I appreciated that there was a theme with the bags suggesting a man on-the-go. The beautiful mixing of color and layering was perfect. I always kind of see Gaspard Yurkievich as the more daring younger cousin to Dries Van Noten-I think it’s the similar color palettes. I liked how there was a continued to play with suiting, each season gets better. It was forward for their customer without being too silly. Shorts on shorts anyone?
Dries Van Noten, was one of the best shows I saw last Spring/Summer 2010. The label always seems to pick a similar color scheme and fabrics that truly seem comfortable and beautiful with just a hint of wit. I really liked the bleached out affect they used on some of their tops, pants, and bags this season. I was surprised to see them follow trend with so many shorts and sock looks. For me Dries has a perfect niche- they always seem to show updated smart classics that are completely wearable.
I have never really taken notice of Alexis Mabille in the past, but definitely will now. The collection clearly inspired by the outdoors was absolutely beautiful. It really fed my inner flower child, yet still seemed to keep its masculinity. The clothes seemed like they fit well and easy. I found the styling (abundance of daisies), hair, and makeup to be quite charming as well. Can’t wait to see what’s next!
Owens showed a collection that was very reminiscent of seasons past. He did take a few steps forward especially with some of the more sculpted geometric leatherwork. I didn’t particularly understand the one print he chose. I do like that Rick Owens seems to design for himself. I am sure the styling of the show aided me in this revelation. I could easily see him wearing all the looks that trotted down the runway. Great shoes, basics and leatherwork per usual!
Leopard print was everywhere in Tisci’s latest menswear show for Givenchy. From leggings, shorts, skorts, shirts, even shoes were covered in the print. I thought it was an interesting move and think it will serve well to define the season for them. The Givenchy man has been so influential in recent seasons that I have no doubt that we will see this trend trickle down.
This spring/summer season of Julius wasn’t as fantastic as last years for me. The Julius man was recognizable but it seemed a little watered down and influenced. I always appreciate the leather and simplicity of Julius’ pieces especially when they are taken apart. That being said, I couldn’t help but feel like Julius was the lovechild of Rick Owens and Juun J. conceived in the Desert. Are you following me? Anyway I thought the jackets were awesome.
This collection seemed very safe for me. I felt like there was color that could possibly stand out and define pieces but all in all I was missing some personality. I just felt like one could probably find many of these pieces in other places easily. I think the stand out pieces were supposed to be the different blazers and raincoats. I wanted more.
The fit was full at Dior and Van Assche continued to show a collection that seemed somewhat influenced by martial arts. I think Dior has and always will do black well. I understand this. I just felt like the only thing I liked about the show outside of the casting were the shoes. Simply put, there was nothing particularly new at Dior for me.
Wow, I was pleasantly surprised by Yves St. Laurent this season. There was truly a personality that shown through. I could definitely see some of the house’s androgynous aspects reflected in various aspects of the show whether it was through interesting cut or print choices. I really liked the glasses and high waisted shorts. I applaud the label for taking a risk this season, hopefully it will pay off.
Monday, June 28, 2010
The Little Fellow
Charlie Chapman’s most well known character served as Galliano’s inspiration for the collection. Galliano put on a show as usual and served balloon pants, tight coats, and all tied up at times. I personally liked the big pants, cheeky/almost dark styling and always appreciate Galliano’s showmanship.
Let me start by saying I like Juun J. I can see the line evolve with each collection. I appreciate the draping and layering approach they always seem to have. I really liked the shorts and pants they showed. Additionally the color scheme and one print that was used on shirts, pants, and backpacks that I would describe as electrified shattered glass was great. At times I feel like Juun J. gets lost in its layers and baggy proportions. While it makes a statement I don’t particular see the function behind the visor-hood-shirt or baggy jumper. I just feel like there is either too much fabric or not enough to make a point. The shoes seemed a bit on the clunky side too- like those sandals your mom bought you that were two sizes too big, but she swears you will grow into. Nonetheless the line is discernible and definitely had great pieces.
Adventures in Gaultier Land
Gaultier provided a collection fit for the traveler- at any age as he sent older bearded men and clean cut young models down the runway . Gaultier continued religious and nautical references but brought in a bit of goth, outerspace, and some street with his inclusion of what seemed to be doo- rags on many of the men. I like Gaultier, although some of his stuff isn’t particular appealing for me, I appreciate his consistency. I have come to find that he always presents pieces that push the boundary, and might even seem borderline perverse to some. I think you have to understand his silly personality and perspective. I recommend reviewing early episodes of Eurotrash for this. Must we not forget he is a somewhat of a Parisian staple, after all even Carine goes to his men’s shows.
P.s. Ysl and Betty Catroux is that you at the end?
- ► 2011 (225)
- Model Cuisine
- Walter Van Beirendonck
- Gaspard Yurkievich
- Dries Van Noten
- Alexis Mabille
- Rick Owens
- Junya Watanabe
- Dior Homme
- Yves St. Laurent
- John Galliano
- Juun J.
- Jean Paul Gaultier
- Albino Deuxieme
- Z for Zegna
- Vivienne Westwood
- Emporio Armani
- Bottega Veneta
- Neil Barrett
- Burberry Prorsum
- Calvin Klein
- Jil Sander
- Men Show Coverage- Coming Soon
- Raf Simons
- R.I.P. Tom Nicon
- Raf Simons
- ▼ June (30)